September/October 2005   
 
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48 Hours


Las Vegas

Plan to live it up—after all, it’s Vegas, baby!

By Dana Sullivan

There’s good reason why Las Vegas is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the world. Here, you’re encouraged to live it up. If you don’t spend too much money, eat too much, and stay up way too late, you haven’t really “done” Vegas.

Day One
Morning: The Strip, all to yourself
At night, Las Vegas Boulevard, aka “the Strip,” is jam-packed with people. But in the morning, you can amble along without crowds, gawking at the grand hotels. It’s also prime time to check out some of the free attractions in the bigger hotels. Stroll through the Conservatory and Botanical Gardens inside the Bellagio. At the Mirage, you can view the Royal White Tiger Habitat, where the big cats used in the Siegfried and Roy show are on display. (Another reason for a daytime stroll: You won’t be accosted by quite so many of the “vendors” handing out the ubiquitous “Girls! Girls!! Girls!!!” flyers!)

Sample a lunchtime buffet
Your morning walk will have earned you a healthy appetite, so hit an all-you-can-eat buffet. One that is often rated as the best in town is the Buffet at Golden Nugget. You can’t beat the prices: $7.99 for lunch ($6.99 for breakfast; $12.99 for dinner; and $13.99 for Sunday brunch).

A new kind of “Strip” mall
Las Vegas is a shopping mecca on par with New York, San Francisco, and Chicago. And while hotels house dozens of stores, you definitely want to scope out the malls along the Strip. Some of the biggest include the Forum Shops at Caesars Palace, The Grand Canal Shoppes at The Venetian, and Desert Passage at the Aladdin.

Shopped till you’re ready to drop? Stop at a spa. One of the best is Spa Mandalay inside the Mandalay Bay Hotel. The Venetian’s Canyon Ranch SpaClub is the current hot spot for celebrities. Both feature dozens of massages, body wraps, and facials—the only stress you’ll experience is deciding which treatments to indulge in.

Happy hour and dinner
One of the best activities in Vegas is people-watching. Many restaurants and bars are positioned so you can eat, drink, and scope out the scene all at the same time. A few of the best perches for surreptitious surveillance: rumjungle (inside the Mandalay Bay hotel), Postrio (a Wolfgang Puck restaurant inside the Venetian), and Pink Taco (upscale Mexican) in the Hard Rock Hotel.

End the night with a view from the top
From the observation deck at the Stratosphere Tower you’ll have unparalleled views of Las Vegas Boulevard in both directions. Hotel personnel claim that at 1,149 feet, it’s the tallest freestanding observation tower in the United States and the tallest building west of the Mississippi. (Admission is $9 for adults; $6 for hotel guests and seniors. Open till midnight on weekends, 10 pm during the week.)


Day Two
Morning escape to the great outdoors
It’s time to get out of town—at least for a little while. Of the some 30 million people who visit Las Vegas each year, only about 1.2 million make it out to Red Rock. But just 17 miles west of the city, the Red Rock National Conservation Area boasts spectacular scenes, from the curiously human-like shapes of the Joshua trees to carpets of spring wildflowers and petrified sand dunes. Pack a bagel and a bottle of water and hike on any number of easy to moderate trails, or take a 13-mile scenic drive.

Flora, fauna, and an afternoon chocolate fix
On your way back to town, stop for a bite at Jason’s Deli in Henderson (1281 West Warm Springs Rd.). Voted the best deli by locals, the menu is loaded with delicious homemade soups, sandwiches (try the portobello mushroom wrap), and salads.

Then stop off at the Ethel M Chocolate Factory and Botanical Cactus Garden, also in Henderson. You’ll have earned a sweet treat, and the cactus garden, which features more than 350 species of cacti, is an amazing sight. (Both attractions are free.) Once you get back into town, check out some exotic fauna at the Wildlife Habitat (free) at Flamingo Hilton, home to flamingos, penguins, swans, and ducks.

Dinner at Paris: Parlez-vous Français?
You don’t have to speak French to order a delicious steak dinner at Mon Ami Gabi (in the Paris Hotel). It’s one of very few outdoor dining spots on the Strip, and the people-watching just can’t be beat. From your table, you may also be treated to the spectacle of the Bellagio’s dancing fountains, just across the street.

Late evening: It’s showtime!
Choose from music, magic, or comedy. Long-running favorites include Mamma Mia (Mandalay Bay), O (Bellagio), the Cirque du Soleil production, and Blue Man Group (Luxor).

No trip to Vegas is complete without a bit of gambling. Try your luck at any of the monster casinos, including the MGM Grand and Caesars Palace. Or follow the insiders downtown to some of the older venues, such as Binion’s, where the World Series of Poker is played each year.

Freelance writer Dana Sullivan may reside in Reno, Nevada, but she heads to Las Vegas when she really wants to live it up.


Good To Know
Shopping. If you hit the jackpot, head to the newly renovated Fashion Show Mall where, in addition to department stores such as Neiman Marcus and Saks, you’ll find dozens of specialty shops.

Transportation. The new Las Vegas Monorail links eight major resorts and is a great way to travel the length of the Strip. It runs from 8 am to midnight; tickets start at $3 per ride.

Weather. Las Vegas has fewer than 45 days of rain each year. Expect hot, desert temps in the summer, and winters in the 50s and 60s. Even in summer, carry a light sweater—air-conditioned casinos can be quite chilling.