 A scenic drive past pineapple farms, Hanauma Bay without a wait, and other good reasons to rent a car in Honolulu by Megan Briscoe Fernandez
In our 50th state, it’s the island of Hawaii that’s nicknamed the Big Island. But don’t be fooled—Oahu is still a big island beyond Honolulu and Waikiki, and renting a car is essential for seeking out noncommercial Hawaiiana: unspoiled beauty, big-wave beaches, Polynesian heritage, and the local surf culture. The North Shore: where the waves are The North Shore, where surf culture thrives, is a must-see. Plan on spending a whole day here, beach-hopping. This change of scenery is about 45 minutes from Waikiki. Not long after setting out, you’re cruising through a quiet countryside of pineapple farms between the island’s two mountain chains.
Continue on Highway 83, which traces the northern tip of the island. Most beaches are free and have parking lots, picnic tables, and showers. Waimea Beach sees swells that can reach 50 feet in the winter. It’s usually not safe to swim during this season, but the crescent-shaped beach is the most gorgeous spot on the North Shore, so stop for a while to watch the surf and gaze across the water.
The sheltered cove at Turtle Bay Resort is open to the public, although there’s a parking fee. The beach is large enough for both guests and day-trippers, and a reef in shallow water offers good snorkeling. Pass up the lunch stand for a platter at Giovanni’s Shrimp Truck a bit further down. From the street, the roadside lunch wagon looks more like an abandoned van, but on the other side, diners line up and wait for a typical Hawaiian plate lunch. While you’re in the neighborhood, spend part of the afternoon at the Polynesian Cultural Center, which recreates eight South Pacific cultures: Hawaii, Tahiti, Samoa, Fiji, the Marquesas, New Zealand, Easter Island, and Tonga. You’ll learn about tattooing and other traditions from staff native to each region. Stay for the evening luau, complete with erupting volcanoes. Or come back another day—the North Shore is worth a repeat drive from Waikiki. The Windward Shore for quiet time Hit the Pali Highway and stop by the Nuuanu Pali Lookout for your first glimpse of this green region beyond the Koolau Mountains. Long ago, King Kamehameha I drove his rival armies off the cliffs to their death 1,000 feet below. Now, visitors take to the gusty point for the best views of Honolulu and the windward beaches.
This route conveniently ends close to Waikiki. You may wish to combine an excursion to the windward and North shores. If so, start at Sandy Beach and work your way up to Kaneohe, then continue to the Polynesian Cultural Center and end the day in Haliewa. Landmarks on your schedule
You’ll be thankful for your wheels when you go to Hanauma Bay, too. The island's best and most popular snorkeling beach is close to Waikiki. All advice says to arrive early or wait in a long line. Without a rental car, you’d have to book a tour or catch the bus to Hanauma Bay, and you may not arrive before the crowds. Admission is $5, snorkel gear rental is extra, and parking ($1 per car) fills up early. Hanauma is a horseshoe-shaped cove at the bottom of a lush, emerald hill. It would take several visits to snorkel the entire reef that fills the bay, which is populated by lots of tropical fish. Many visitors bring a cooler and make a day of it, alternating between dips in the water (there are a few breaks in the coral good for swimming) and drying off on the sweeping shore. Hanauma Bay was rated the best beach in the country this year by “Dr. Beach,” Steven Leatherman, whose annual list comes out each Memorial Day Weekend and is featured on the Travel Channel. If you choose to spend only a few hours at Hanauma Bay, you’d be in a good position to explore the windward coast from there, ending at the Nuuanu Pali Lookout before returning to Waikiki. Rental car versus bus system By 7:45, our bus had not come. The bus schedule wasn’t posted, so we had no idea when to expect it. At 8, a van driver came around and said that if we were waiting for the bus to Hanauma, it wouldn’t arrive for another half-hour. He offered a ride for $5 each and promised a return trip, too. A man at the bus stop warned us against it, but a couple also headed to Hanauma was already in the van and said they used this service all the time, so hop on in.
Oahu’s bus system covers the island, but with frequent stops it can take an hour or more to reach far-flung beaches or towns. If you’re going to use the buses, at least get a schedule at a shopping center or convenience store in Waikiki. Just don’t count on a quick transfer—and if you’re frugal with your time, don’t mistake the Circle Isle coastal routes for bargain island tours. Oahu’s edges are best experienced with your freedom. Good To Know
Rental cars. If you don’t rent a car at the airport, you can pick one up from an Independent outfit or major chain in Waikiki. Plan on spending at least $25 per day. Take along the TourTalk Oahu audio island guide-78 minutes on CD or cassette for $24.95. (www.tourtalkhawaii.com) Transportation. The Waikiki Trolley connects to major points of interest in Honolulu and Waikiki faster than the bus. One-day passes are $25; four-day passes are $45 (www.waikikitrolley.com). Rides on Oahu’s public bus system, called TheBus, are $2 one way. Pick up a timetable at an ABC Store, major Waikiki hotels, McDonalds, or the Ala Moana Shopping Center (www.thebus.org). Beach safety. Strong surf, especially on the north and west coasts, is often too rough for surfing, much less swimming. Always swim on guarded beaches, heed signs, and ask a lifeguard about current conditions. Follow the locals’ motto: When in doubt, stay out. Web site. www.gohawaii.com/oahu/
|
|
You can barely walk a block in bustling Waikiki without passing an ABC Store filled with beach essentials and kitschy trinkets. The boxed dashboard hula dolls are most prominent, perhaps because they’re displayed in mass. Who can ignore an entire wall of tiny plastic dancers synchronized with one hip jutting to the side? At less than $10, it’s a classic souvenir—just don’t wait until you get home to find a dashboard to rest it on.
First stop is Haliewa, the most charming town on the North Shore with lots of boutiques selling island wear and surfboards. Stop by the outdoor stand of Matsumoto Shave Ice, famous for making snow cones since 1951. Each day, the Matsumoto family serves 1,000 cones drizzled with homemade flavored syrup.
Sunset Beach, famous from the movies, is a great spot for swimming, examining tide pools, and collecting shells in the summer. Next door is the Banzai Pipeline. One theory says the nickname resulted after legendary surf-movie director Bruce Brown yelled "banzai!" when a surfer conquered a ferocious wave during a shoot in 1959. 
Head for Kaneohe Beach. With crystalline water, it’s one of the most picturesque beaches on the island. Find a sailing excursion to the sandbar for a rarely seen view of Oahu. Then make your way to the large beach town of Kailua, where millionaires’ homes, antique stores, and bed-and-breakfasts share space. The broad, curving beach on a mountain-ringed bay is a great spot for swimming and watching windsurfers somersault in the air, but trade winds blow Portuguese man-of-war to this area. Make sure to watch for the swarms of the stinging creatures, or ask lifeguards if they’ve been spotted. Head south to a marked blowhole and stop at Sandy Beach to see bodysurfers brave the waves without a board.
Visitors to Pearl Harbor board a Navy vessel for a short ride to the USS Arizona Memorial, a curved, white building that floats above the ship sunk during the 1941 attack by Japan. Visible in the water, the battleship still leaks oil—a bleeding reminder of the lives lost that December day, some say. You may also hear the theory that oil will continue to rise to the surface until the last survivor of the Pearl Harbor attack dies.
We did. Our escort was a taxi driver who cruised Waikiki for extra business on his off days—and he happened to be a fellow Hoosier originally. He offered plenty of commentary and restaurant recommendations on the drive to Hanauma Bay, and when we arrived, there was no line at the gate.
Free Waikiki. One-hour classes on Hawaiian customs, such as making leis, playing the ukelele, and Hawaiian quilting, are offered at the Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center daily (