by Betsy Sheldon

St. Thomas may be a United States possession—the American dollar is the currency of the realm and English is the language. But one step off the plane or cruise ship ends all doubt—this isn’t Kansas, Dorothy.

Stunning scenery aside, there’s plenty to distinguish St. Thomas and sister islands St. Croix and St. John from other U.S. states and territories. Beaches and shopping are what most tourists seek out—but colorful cultures, fantastical legends and traditions, and Old World architecture are what set the island apart. Consider these attributes:

Carnival spirits rooted in Africa
Mocko jumbies tower above the crowd. The masked stilt-walkers strut, prance, and dazzle the carnival-watchers as they perform before the judges’ station. Troupe members of all ages and sizes (a relative thing, once you strap on a pair of 6-foot stilts) perform amazing acrobatics. A young boy—he can’t be more than 7—wows the crowd as he removes a stilt and hops on one leg, holding his foot behind him. But the showstopper is the lieutenant governor of the U.S. Virgin Islands, who shakes and gyrates to the rhythms of a steel band as parade-watchers applaud.

It’s carnival time in St. Thomas—and troupes of stilt-dancers are in full force, glittering in their sequined, sparkled, mirrored, dayglow-colored costumes. But mocko jumbies don’t need much excuse to celebrate; they’re sure to be seen at lesser island festivities, private parties, and hotel and restaurant events.

Mocko jumbies have been performing their high-rise antics for decades in the U.S. Virgin Islands and beyond. The myth of the stilt-walkers comes from West Africa, most likely originating in Ghana more than 1,000 years ago. Mocko jumbies were perceived as healers, masqueraders, and guardian spirits. These benevolent beings were said to preside over festivals, weddings, and community events—protecting the celebrants from evil. The mysterious spirits were most frequently masked, completely covered—and always tall. Today, islanders refer to all manner of scary ghosts as “jumbies.” But mocko jumbies are always a welcome presence on St. Thomas—a sure sign of celebration.

Shop for mocko jumbies. The streets of Charlotte Amalie become less crowded as they climb away from the frenzy of the harbor, where sidewalks are choked with cruisers and hawkers of jewelry, watches, and duty-free stuff. On the quieter streets are galleries and more art-y shops displaying watercolors, metal sculpture, ceramics, and textiles. Among the unique souvenirs you can snag are mocko jumbies—mocko jumbie dolls, mocko jumbie paintings, and mocko jumbie sculptures.

You’ll find metal wall hangings at the Blue Turtle Gallery on Government Hill. More folksy dolls can be found at the Native Arts & Crafts Cooperative, across from Vendors Plaza near the waterfront.

See stilt-dancer performances. You couldn’t make it during Carnival? No worry. Most mocko jumbies don’t limit their appearances to occasional festivities. You’re likely to find a stilt-dancer on the playbill at many a nightclub or restaurant. Try the Tropicalia Restaurant at Magens Point. Plenty of island hotels, including the Wyndham Sugar Bay Resort, feature weekly “Caribbean Nights,” at which stilt-dancers are almost always a highlight—and everyone is welcome.

Argghh, Matey!
St. Thomas from a pirate’s-eye-view
It’s said he combed his beard with blood, swallowed gunpowder swigged down with rum, and stuck lit candles in his hat when he went into battle. Edward Teach, perhaps more familiar as Blackbeard, haunted the shores of St. Thomas during the heyday of sea trade in the late 1600s. The islands were a popular stop for pirates, who liked to hide their booty, rest up between attacks, and celebrate their conquests with a bit of yo-ho-hoing.

There’s little evidence, however, that the notorious pirate ever stepped foot into the stone watchtower known as Blackbeard’s Castle. Built in 1679, the structure is considered one of the oldest in the Virgin Islands and continues to hold special intrigue for legend-believers. Blackbeard’s Castle is on the National Register of Historic Places and now serves as a hotel and restaurant. (The food is outstanding—try the pecan-encrusted salmon.) Hotel brochures promote the link to the demonic Blackbeard. Visitors taking in the view of Charlotte Amalie’s bay are eager to believe it.

Bluebeard’s Castle atop a hill in Frederiksberg has an even weaker link to reality. The structure, which served as a Danish Fort until 1735, is today, like Blackbeard’s Castle, a hotel—and said to be haunted by the pirate and his murdered wives.

Sir Francis Drake, on the other hand, was a respectable seafarer—and a confirmed connection to the English explorer supports the authenticity of Drake’s Seat on the north coast. A small plaque identifies the cement bench—but it’s the vistas you’ll pay attention to, and understand why Drake used this spot as a lookout. Sunsets on Magens Bay are said to be spectacular from here.

Peer out at pirate panoramas. The island’s winding roads all lead to heavenly views—such as those seen from Blackbeard’s, Bluebeard’s, and Drake’s sights. Be sure to add Mountain Top to your list of scenic stops. The high-altitude rest stop features a shopping area and a cocktail bar whose famed banana daquiris have been making island history since the 1960s.

Danish settlers paint the town —in pastels
Plantation windmills, waterfront buildings, gabled windows, and narrow streets throughout St. Thomas and the other U.S. Virgin Islands distinguish themselves as “not from here.” Today, the majority of residents descend from African slaves, and island music, culture, art, and legends have a decidedly West Indian edge. But the architecture is a product of Denmark.

Columbus landed on St. Thomas in 1493—from that point, the islands were wrested back and forth among sea powers. Denmark established control during the 1600s. Under the Danes, St. Thomas flourished as a slave and trade port, with island plantations producing tobacco, sugar, and cotton. Slavery was abolished in 1847, which led to the economic demise of the islands. In 1917, the United States bought St. Thomas, St. John, and St. Croix—and Danish presence in the Caribbean sailed away.

Earth-red Fort Christian, topped with a clock tower, holds a place of honor on Charlotte Amalie’s waterfront as the oldest structure on the island (the walls were built in 1672; the clock tower in 1784). The Virgin Islands Museum is housed in what used to be the dungeon. When you come up for air, you’ll be dazzled by picturesque harbor views.

For more history, not to mention a generous splash of color, visit the mint-green Legislature Building, where the Danes handed over the islands to the United States. And if you just can’t get enough of those Caribbean pastels, stroll past the banana-yellow Post Office. In Emancipation Park, across the street, is a bust of Danish King Christian IX, but the grounds really commemorate the island’s slave emancipation in 1848.

An art collection in Government House includes some works by Camille Pissarro—a St. Thomas native. And the Seven Arches Museum is a fully restored 18th-century Danish home, providing a glimpse into the life of comfort enjoyed by slave-holding landowners.

Take a walking tour. Although most tourists come to shop at Charlotte Amalie (named, by the way, for an 18th-century Danish queen), a walking tour of the city leads to dramatic forts, intriguing museums, historic churches—even a synagogue (its sand floor and small museum make a sight-worthy stop). Sign up for a tour led by a Historical Trust guide (340-774-5541). Walks launch from different start points and vary in length and sites included—most include a rum punch at the end.