 Your Perfect Mexico by Megan Briscoe Fernandez We were just a few miles down the road from our exclusive beach resort on the Mayan Riviera when we saw the hitchhikers. Dozens of young people with backpacks moved between the basic beach lodges and the highway, where they flag down the bus to the Cancun airport. It’s walkable, but if they can hop in the back of a truck or rental car, all the better.
We slowed to navigate among the pedestrians on the bumpy road, and a German couple asked for a ride to their hotel. They had flown from Europe without a place to stay, like they always do, and called around once they landed in Cozumel. A ferry, a bus, a stroll, and a free ride in the back seat of a stranger’s Jeep with suitcases on their laps—they’ve been vacationing in Mexico this way before the new all-inclusives were a sparkle in an investor’s eye. It was a stark contrast from the nearby country-club environment of Puerto Aventuras, where we were ensconced. There, retirees have golf, yachts, and early-morning beach strolls on the mind. You schlep nowhere—boutiques and restaurants are all neatly clustered around a marina, and pleasantly landscaped cobblestone lanes wind through condo communities. The variety along the Mayan Riviera is true to the whole of Mexico’s vacation palette. Value, a margarita, and the warm sun have been luring gringos to Mexico for decades. And as resort areas such as the Mayan Riviera have developed, so have the choices. The vibe and the “gringo factor” (how Americanized the place is) are different in each place. But somewhere on the Yucatan, the Pacific-coast Mexican Riviera, the Baja Peninsula, or in other popular destinations, there’s the vacation spot with your ideal scene—and a good margarita. Acapulco
Gringo Factor. Not overwhelming. Hollywood pedigree, but Acapulco is tailored for vacationers from Mexico City. Only Here. Cliff-diving. Not you—locals clutch torches as they plunge from tall cliffs at La Quebrada, and visitors love to watch. Snapshot. Located on the Pacific coast, Acapulco is a traditional beach resort with a focus on fishing, sunbathing, and nightlife that’s romantic and energetic. It’s more active than relaxing, thanks to a healthy presence of colonial Spanish architecture, colorful neighborhoods, the local plaza, and museums, including one dedicated to masks from around the world. Still, the stunning crescent of Acapulco Bay and its spoils are the star attractions. Cancun
Gringo Factor. More Charlie than Carlos. A lot more. Only Here. Easy bus system. For around 50 cents, you can zip along the Hotel Zone. Snapshot. It’s always a party in Cancun, the resort that started it all on the Yucatan’s Mayan Riviera. As much as Cancun deserves its wild reputation, the place is a lot deeper than a shot glass. The white beach is truly beautiful, there are fine restaurants in addition to American chains, and the Mayan ruins of Chitzen Itza, two hours away, are worth the trip alone. Families are catered to with miniature golf, an aquarium, and dinner on dueling pirate ships, while adventurers can always rent a car and explore the rest of the coast. Huatulco
Gringo Factor. What’s a gringo? Americans who discover Huatulco are among the savviest travelers. Only Here. Coffee plantation tours. Shade-grown Pluma coffee flourishes in the mountains around Huatulco, but is hard to find outside the region. Snapshot. The resort area encompasses nine calm bays with golden beaches. Mexico tourism officials are responsible for its development, but are taking a different approach than they did in Cancun. Here, ecology is carefully preserved and high-rise buildings forbidden. With only two bays developed, most of the area is still pristine, and seen on boat tours. Hotels are distinctive and inviting, if not luxurious. Isla Mujeres
Gringo Factor. Only by association. Day trippers arrive from Cancun, but those who choose accommodations here aren’t looking for McDonald’s. Only Here. Golf cart transportation. Scoot around the entire island on a rental. Snapshot. This tiny island 6 miles from Cancun boasts the same white beaches and calm Caribbean waters, but none of the commercialism. The town of brightly painted buildings sits near the island’s best beaches. Snorkeling, fishing, and bonding with a hammock are chief pursuits, although excursions to Cancun and the Mayan ruins are possible. Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo
Gringo Factor. High and low. High in Ixtapa, the resort district. Low in Zihuatanejo, the neighboring fishing village. Only Here. Bargain massages on the beach. To the north of Dorado Pacifico hotel, in front of Carlos ‘n Charlie’s restaurant, walk-up appointments are just $10 an hour. You keep your swimsuit on. Snapshot. This pair of towns on the Pacific coast gives visitors a taste of two worlds. They stay in Ixtapa, a collection of beach resorts, shopping plazas, a golf course, and other modern trappings, and appreciate the proximity to restaurants along the beach and a market across the street from hotels. But they always visit “Zihua,” 4 miles away, for shrimp tacos and sidewalk musicians. Boats bring in the day’s catch and visitors fishing for the day. Los Cabos
Gringo Factor. Not far behind Cancun, thanks to its proximity to the West Coast. Only Here. Catch your own dinner. In this sports fishing haven, many restaurants at the marina will fry up what you bring in. Snapshot. At the tip of the Baja Peninsula where the Pacific and Sea of Cortez meet, Cabo San Lucas enjoys dramatic scenery punctuated by a landmark rock arch, El Arco. John Wayne was among the celebrities to put Los Cabos on the map when he and others began fishing here after World War II. Now, the resort caters to an upscale, lively crowd with luxurious resorts, Mexico’s best golf courses, and a number of good restaurants and rowdy bars—including Cabo Wabo, owned by former Van Halen frontman Sammy Hagar. The flipside of Cabo’s scene is the town of San Jose del Cabo, with local flavor to spare. Oaxaca
Gringo Factor. Nada. It’s the kind of place featured in National Geographic. Only Here. Spend the day as a student in the kitchen of cookbook author Susana Trilling, who lives in Oaxaca. Snapshot. Nestled in a gorgeous valley, Oaxaca is anchored by a historic district with a plaza and shops in colorful old buildings. Day trips to towns specializing in a single craft are the norm. After a demonstration at the Dona Rosa family hacienda, you may need to buy a straw basket from a street vendor to bring home all of your black pottery. Playa del Carmen
Gringo Factor. Rising. As the spotlight trickles down from Cancun to the north, Americanism is bound to increase. Only Here. Mayan culture. Playa is the gateway to ruins, ceremonies, and crafts of this ancient civilization. Snapshot. A Mexican town-cum-resort area pleases on both fronts. Downtown is jumping with a shopping district and lively beach, while an adjacent resort district offers access to the local scene and quiet environs back at the ranch. The beach is beautiful, snorkeling abundant, and, if you can pull yourself away from it, you can visit Cozumel or fascinating cultural-ecological amusement parks nearby. Puerto Vallarta
Gringo Factor. Medium. Romantic restaurants high in the mountains convince visitors to see beyond the familiar American brands—all the way into the sunset. Only Here. Zip-lining a forest canopy. This treetop-to-treetop adventure is usually followed by a swim in a waterfall. Snapshot. The town of Vallarta sits center stage on the Pacific’s Banderas Bay, crowned by a tall, ornate church bell tower and flanked by resort development. The charm of the old town woos visitors day and night to amble amid shops and galleries and along the bustling seaside promenade. A playground of mountains and water unfolds around the town, dressed in sunset colors of bougain-villea. Head uphill to Chico’s Paradise, a restaurant built into the rocks by a small waterfall and swimming hole, or take a boat to a torchlit bay for dinner and a show on the beach. Good To Know Language. Spanish is the official language in Mexico. English is widely spoken in tourist areas. Entry requirements. A passport isn’t required, but if you have one, it’s the only document you need. Otherwise, show proof of citizenship: a government-issued photo ID (such as a driver’s license) accompanied by a birth certificate with a raised seal. On the plane, you should receive a Mexican immigration card that serves as your visitor visa during your stay. Don’t lose it. You must present it upon departure, or pay a fine. Currency. The peso consistently trades at about 10 per U. S. dollar. For quick ballpark conversions to dollars, simply divide the Mexican price by 10. Electricity. 110 volts, same as the United States. No converters necessary. Phones. For the best rates, avoid the phone in your hotel room. Use the pay phones, with either your own calling card or a phone card from a local store. Water. Hotels have water purification systems. In markets and off the beaten path, stick to bottled water and avoid fresh produce.
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This is Tulum, the last stop on the Mayan Riviera—the Yucatan’s Caribbean coastline
that starts in Cancun and stretches south for some 80 white-beach miles. All-inclusive resorts
are going up along the coast faster than the pico de gallo goes down, joining the mix
that already includes lodging of all shades in Cancun, boutique hotels and mid-sized properties
in Playa del Carmen, and hammocks that rent for $25 a night in Tulum.
The Vibe. Vintage. It’s the original Mexican beach resort and the model for all others.
The Vibe. Flashy. Music blares from restaurants, shopping centers, and neon-lit megaclubs.
The Vibe. Private. Isolated by the Sierra Madre Mountains, the southernmost resort on the
Pacific is still a secret, even to many Mexicans.
The Vibe. Sleepy. Beachgoers mingle at small hotels and in the tidy town.
The Vibe. Relaxed. Cozy and compact, Ixtapa is easy to navigate at a languid pace, and
Zihuatanejo offers seaside cafes.
The Vibe. Cool. Old Hollywood built it, young Hollywood enjoys it.
The Vibe. Cultural. Well-preserved ruins, rich cuisine, and traditions are the highlights
of this southern city, pronounced wuh-HA-kuh.
The Vibe. Playful. The casual town—including a pedestrian-only shopping street—blends
with the beach, making life and leisure synonymous.
The Vibe. Original. A string of avant-garde sculptures studs the waterfront in town.