48 Hours

Washington, D.C.
Year-round attractions, round-the-clock action

by Rich Beattie

T he nation’s capital is in the middle of an exciting course of change, one that has nothing to do with Democrats or Republicans. And it’s about time: While the wealth of monuments and museums has always provided great daytime distractions, the rest of the city has been about as exciting as watching C-Span. And, in the past, forget about a choice of great restaurants—steaks and martinis had always worked just fine for the politicos and lobbyists, thank you very much.

Fortunately, the city’s been waking up and embracing its potential, and the past few years have seen some fantastic developments in the culinary and excitement categories. Add that onto the existing breadth of cultural wonders (dominated by the ever-amazing Smithsonian), and finally this city is becoming more of a year-round and round-the-clock destination.

Day One
Morning: animal attraction
The political world may be a zoo, but to see some real animals, drop by the National Zoo at sunrise. The gates at this always-free attraction open at 6 am daily; while the buildings don’t open till 10, there’s still plenty of wildlife to spy at the break of day. Then grab a coffee and something sweet at the nearby Firehook Bakery on Connecticut Avenue.

Afternoon: become a spy
The much-ballyhooed International Spy Museum opened in 2002 near Chinatown and is still drawing huge crowds. If you have kids, this is a must. Between choosing an alias and crawling through air vents, they’ll be talking about this place for a long time. Just go early so you don’t miss out on tickets for the day—they can sell out fast. Then wander down to the National Mall, where the Smithsonian museums beckon with treasures that would take weeks to see properly. Your best bet: Focus on one. African Art, National History, and Air and Space are among your choices. You can see everything from the newly installed kitchen of Julia Child (American History) to Apollo mission artifacts (Air and Space).

Evening: head to the coast
Take advantage of the changing culinary face of D.C. One of the best restaurants: D.C. Coast at 14th and K streets. This gem was named number one in D.C. by Gourmet Magazine in 2000, and with good reason—the intense flavors are tops. Hint: The pork chop is unlike anything you’ve ever tasted.

Day Two
Morning: lavish spread
Follow up on your fantastic dinner with D.C.’s best Sunday buffet brunch. The spread set out at the Fairmont Hotel throws lots of fresh seafood and delicious desserts into its collection of waffles and omelets. Or head to the Kennedy Center’s Sunday brunch and its unequaled view of the Potomac. A few years ago, they threw open the kitchen doors and invited guests to help themselves.

Afternoon: monuments and markets
Unfortunately, the days of casually wandering through America’s political buildings are over. The policy on White House tours is in constant flux. Check the latest info at www.whitehouse.gov. The line for tours of the Capitol (closed on Sundays) forms super-early, so bring breakfast. The same is true for the Washington Monument, but get around that by reserving your tickets through the Park Service at 800-967-2283 or reservations.nps.gov up to five months in advance. (There’s is a $1.50-per-ticket reservation charge.) After checking out the view from on high, walk down to the Lincoln Memorial, past the World War II Memorial currently being built (opening in May 2004), and the moving Vietnam Memorial.

Then it’s time to shop, so wander up into Georgetown, about 15 blocks away. Yes, Banana Republic and Barnes & Noble have moved in, but you’ll also find the quaint boutiques and tiny cafes along M Street that have defined the flavor of this upscale neighborhood for years.

Evening: dine overseas
The Adams Morgan area has been the anchor of D.C.’s after-dark activities for some time, and it’s lost none of its sizzle. Ethnic foods are its strong suit: Wander down 18th Street and pick from several winners such as Red Sea (Ethiopian), Anzi (Italian), or the cleverly named Grill from Ipanema (Brazilian).

After dinner, head to nearby U Street, which continues to open new places and grow its excitement index. Grab a beverage at the hip Chi Cha Lounge (don’t miss the Peruvian house drinks), then head closer to Dupont Circle and drop in at the fancy 18th Street Lounge, in a mansion where Teddy Roosevelt once lived.

New York City-based freelancer Rich Beattie went to college in D.C. with grand political aspirations, but a short stint working on the Hill cured him of that.

Good To Know

When to go. Summers can be humid, but D.C. still has the best Fourth of July celebration in the country (on the National Mall). Otherwise, choose spring or fall. The famed cherry blossoms come to life at the Tidal Basin around early April—just expect crowds.

Getting around. There’s been a big hike in taxi fares over the past few years, and D.C.’s haphazard licensing protocol means unless you know the system you could get taken for more than just a ride. The most economical (and best) way to get around remains the stellar Metro system, which costs just $1.20 to $2.20 per non-rush-hour trip.

Security. As you can imagine, museum and monument security has been ratcheted up over the past couple years. If possible, don’t bring a bag.