by Betsy Sheldon

You may have heard the stories—bears pawing through downtown dumpsters. The moose that had to wait until winter before the plastic lawn chair shrunk enough in the cold to loosen from its antlers. And the elk, entangled in Christmas tree lights, that served as a roving holiday greeting.

Even if you don't meet up with a moose in the middle of town, you'll have a hard time getting away from nature in Banff—sunk, as it is, in the deep pocket of sensurround mountains. Turn in any direction and you're confronted with another spectacular view—stony, jagged snow-streaked peaks in one direction, velvety folds of grass and pines in another.

The town of Banff isn't very big. Yet it exudes a global flavor with outdoor wholesomeness as bands of tourists from Sweden to Japan crowd the streets buying walking sticks, nursing Kokanee beers at sidewalk bars, and swapping stories of wildlife sightings. As charming as the town is, it's the scenery beyond that commands attention and demands that you strap on a backpack, lace up your hiking shoes, and get out and explore:

Bow River Parkway—A slow journey through paradise
Save for the underpasses and overpasses built exclusively for wildlife, the TransCanada Highway is designed for travelers who wish to zip quickly across the country. From Banff, it'll take you to Lake Louise, the Columbia Icefields, and Jasper National Park.

The Bow River Parkway, on the other hand, is for those who don't wish to zip. The scenic drive winds along the Bow River with plenty of stops for glacial-colored rivers and lakes, broad alpine meadows, hiking trails, and wildlife spottings. Plan for special expeditions at Johnston Canyon, leading to remarkable waterfalls, or Castle Rock—an impressive-looking climb said to be easier than it looks.

If you rent a car rather than join a guided bus tour, make sure to buy a park pass—$10 Canadian—or you may find a ticket on your dashboard when you return after a hike or a photo op.

Lake Louise—A civilized adventure
The turquoise waters of Lake Louise are framed by snow-covered slopes and fringes of pine. Wooded trails bordering the lake lead to respectable hikes, and canoe rentals offer lazy paddles to the middle of its mirror-like surface.

But another notable draw to this most famous of glacial lakes is the grand, 19th-century hotel that holds court before the view. Busloads of tourists unload to snap pictures and wander the grounds of the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. An alp horn player performs "Amazing Grace" in front of a formal garden. Visitors and guests alike dine at tables that welcome in majestic views of the lake.

Most who visit Lake Louise also take a short detour to see Moraine Lake, an equally unbelievably blue-green body of water with a shoreline wound with hiking trails. Warnings of bear sightings discourage hikers from wandering alone.

Icefield Parkway—Swallowed up in the views
Consistently voted the most scenic drive in the world, the Icefield Parkway, which stretches from Banff to Jasper National Park, is home to one of the greatest concentration of glaciers south of the Arctic Circle. The glaciers may be in retreat, but there's nothing retiring about the scenery. It swallows you up.

Learn to distinguish glaciers from mere, snow-covered peaks: The glaciers have a bluish-greenish glow, which explains why lakes created by glacial melt are more saturated in color than the clearest Caribbean seas. It has to do with the rockflour, a tiny particle found in every snowflake that remains after the snow melts to give off the powdery gemstone hue.

The drive from Banff to the Athabasca Glacier is packed with scenic overlooks that inspire camera stops. From the Mistayo River Valley to Peyto Lake (the bluest of the glacial lakes and the highest elevation point on the drive) to Sunwapta Canyon and Athabasca Falls, the views are big and the likelihood of seeing wildlife high.

Athabasca Glacier—Walking on thick ice
There's something unsettling about standing on an iceberg—it goes against everything your mother ever taught you. As the ice beneath your feet puddles and gives, you imagine a loud crack, a sudden split, and a plunge into a bottomless crevasse.

Relax. A half-dozen monster-truck-sized snow coaches travel up and down this centuries-old chunk of ice. Buses depart from the chalet-styled Columbia Icefield Centre and carry passengers to a snow coach station where they climb aboard the made-for-ice vehicles for a short ride to the toe of the Athabasca Glacier.

Even in the heat of summer, conditions on the glacier make a fleece jacket and mittens preferable to shorts and T-shirt. Gleeful passengers slide across the surface, posing for pictures and stopping to dip up cupfuls of glacial-pure water for an ice-cold drink. at the Columbia Icefield Centre, exhibits and movies illuminate the region's geological history.

Back in Banff—Wilderness tamed
Bill Peyto's face is on the city-limits welcome sign, not to mention the front of Wild Bill's Restaurant. The 19th-century guide and outfitter, said to have shot a bear and brought a lynx into a tavern, reflects the wild spirit that pioneered this area.

Modern Banff, however, has been tamed, primarily by tourism. The small downtown is anchored by a main street strangled with gift shops, restaurants, and hotels. Compared to the surrounding wilderness, Banff's museums are "B attractions". But the Whyte Museum, the Buffalo Nations Luxton Museum, and the Banff Park Museum are worth a visit when taken in on picturesque walks around town. Or hop on the town trolley for just $1—it runs from one end of town to the other along Banff Avenue.

At the town's outer limits, up Mountain Avenue, is Banff Springs Hotel, one of the grand old lodgings built in the 1860s by Canadian Pacific wealth. Farther up the road, a trail leads to the top of Sulphur Mountain (three-miles), but it's a challenging hike. Most prefer to take the gondola to the top for a 90-mile view, then ride back down for a rejuvenating soak in the mineral waters of Upper Hot Springs.

But the best way to spend a summer evening in town is to find an outdoor cafe or bar and watch the sun play shadow games against the mountain faces until finally, around 11 pm, the sun sets on Banff and surrounding wilderness.